Fig.1 is by no means the whole story. But if the explanation above has you as confused as my editor (Be nice - Ed.) - here’s a summary in simple (!) english:
- Flat bottomed numbers align with other flat bottomed numbers at the bottom.
- Flat topped numbers align with other flat topped numbers at the top.
- Round bottomed numbers align with other round bottomed numbers at the bottom.
- Round topped numbers align with other round topped numbers at the top.
2. a) IF YOUR EXTERIOR MOUNTING SURFACE IS FLAT, tape the assembled paper template to the wall. (Use a level if necessary to find absolute horizontal - the human eye can also be quite reliable, but if in doubt, do use a level). IF YOUR EXTERIOR MOUNTING SURFACE IS UNEVEN, go directly to Step 2.b below.
Mark each hole center with the point of a nail and a hammer (OR puncture each hole center in the paper template with the point of a pin or nail before taping it to the wall, then mark the wall through the holes in the paper with a fine point pencil. After removing the template, follow this up with a hammer hit to a nail or center punch to the pencil marks on the wall ).
i). With a 7/32" bit, drill holes approximately x" (where x = length of threaded rods minus thickness of digits minus 1/8"* minus depth of standoffs [OR minus how far you would like the numbers to stand proud of the mounting surface]) into the surface of your exterior wall (this will allow the numbers to stand off of the wall at a minimum of ¼").
* Applies to our stainless steel numbers
** See Footnotes for examples of this formula for our a) Hollow Stainless Numbers, OR b) Solid Aluminum Numbers.
ii). Screw the threaded rods (included) into the threaded inserts on the back of each number. Note: Do not tighten against back side of number 'face' - this may dimple the front.
iii). Proceed to Step 3 below
.
2. b). IF YOUR EXTERIOR MOUNTING SURFACE IS UNEVEN, make a wood template: (If your exterior mounting surface is FLAT - We told you once: Proceed to Step 3 below).
To Make a Wood Template -
Tape the paper template to a flat board (ply, particle, MDF etc - board should be 1/2" thick for ship lap; ¾" thick for very uneven split-faced stone) and mark each hole center with the point of a nail and a hammer.
Drill a 7/32" hole in each marked location. It is preferable to do this on a drill press* as it will bore the holes at a perfect 90 degrees to the face of the board.
*If you do not own a drill press (the majority of us do not): Look in the Yellow Pages under "Cabinet Makers" (not "Kitchens" or "Kitchen Cabinets" as they are generally "showrooms" full of salespeople who have neither seen nor held a drill). Phone the smallest shop you can find and explain your task. Even better: Show up unannounced (as the job always sounds more complicated over the phone). Most smaller cabinet shops will do it for $5 cash (even if they take 5 minutes - they’ll still pull in $60 an hour - close to or above their normal "Shop Rate"). For another $5 they will happily cut you the piece of particle board or MDF you didn’t bring because you don’t own a table saw (the majority of us do not). [FYI: Particle board & MDF have a street value of approximately 75 cents to $1 per square foot].
i). Screw the threaded rods (included) into the threaded inserts on the back of each number. Note: Do not tighten against back side of number 'face' - this may dimple the front.
ii). Do a trial fitting of the numbers in the holes in the wood template. If they seem too tight or are reluctant to go in without force, do not proceed. Instead, enlarge the holes in the wood template with a 1/4" bit (right beside the 7/32" bits in most larger hardware stores).
Do another trial fitting. If the numbers are aligned to your satisfaction, remove the numbers from the holes. Remove the threaded rods from the numbers and proceed to the next step.
iii). With a 7/32" bit (OR 1/4" if you enlarged the holes - as described above), drill one (1) hole in your exterior wall (This hole should correspond to the top left hole on your wood template). Depth should be approximately 2" to 2¼" into the surface of your exterior wall. [For brick, stucco & stone, use a masonry bit. These can be found at most larger hardware stores & home centers & will work in regular (rotation-only / non-hammer) drills. For even easier drilling - or if you have dozens of holes to make - industrial grade carbide-tipped masonry bits for regular (rotation-only) drills can be found at professional tool centers (ie: the places that normally sell to the building trades). A final option: Browse the Yellow Pages under "Tile - (Ceramic) - Contractors" and arrange for a 10 minute visit by someone with a hammer drill and a 7/32" masonry bit].
iv). Push one threaded rod into this hole.
v). Push the wood template onto this threaded rod. Hold the template level (tape your level to the top edge of your wood template for this) and drill through the top right template hole until you have reached sufficient depth (OR: drill in part way, pull out the drill, rotate the template away, and drill to sufficient depth).
vi). Push one threaded rod through the top right hole in the template and into the second hole in the exterior wall. The template will now be suspended from the wall by the 2 threaded rods. (If wall surface is extremely uneven, drill 2 more of these holes - bottom left & right - and insert 2 more threaded rods. Hang wood template from these 4 threaded rods). See Fig. 2
0
vii). Drill the rest of the holes.
viii). Remove the template. Drill holes to sufficient depth if necessary (very likely).
ix). Screw the threaded rods (again) into the threaded inserts on the back of each number.
3. Do a trial fitting of the numbers in the holes. If the numbers are aligned to your satisfaction, remove them from the wall and proceed to Step 4 below.
If they seem too tight or are reluctant to go in without force, do not proceed. Instead, pull out the numbers and enlarge the holes with a 1/4" bit (right beside the 7/32" bits in most larger hardware stores). Do another trial fitting.
Then, if - after enlarging the holes - the numbers are now aligned to your satisfaction, remove them from the wall and proceed to Step 4 below.
If they are NOT aligned to your satisfaction, please note:
A. The extra 1/16" that each 1/4" hole is larger than the 3/16" threaded rods leaves room for insertion of a straight pin, straightened paper clip (smallest size) or a flat toothpick (some larger toothpicks and paper clips may require enlarging that specific hole with a 1/4" drill bit). These "shims" (pin, paper clip or toothpick) can be used to persuade any one of your numbers to the right or left, up or down - when used in conjunction with a hole larger than 3/16". Keep in mind that only the most particular and discerning among us can detect alignment variations that small.
B. Remember, as stated above: All alpha-numeric fonts vary in height from character to character. 1's, 2's & 4's are usually shortest; 0's, 3's, 6’s, 8's & 9’s are usually tallest; 5's, & 7's are usually in between.
4. Blow the drilling dust out of the holes in the wall. Brush the drilling dust (especially if it's masonry dust) off of the threaded rods. Then...
a). IF AND ONLY IF you are installing to a FLAT SURFACE (most exterior walls are NOT: Even smooth-faced brick has recessed mortar areas) - slide the standoff tubes onto the threaded rods.
b). With a caulking gun or squeeze-tube (if you don't want to buy a caulking gun for just this occasion, most larger grocery &/or do-it-yourself [Home Depot, etc] stores carry small squeezable tubes of silicone), inject a small amount of clear silicone into the holes of the first number. Do not fill the hole entirely or inserting the rods will be difficult. A 1/2" long by 3/16" diameter bead is just about perfect: Time your 'squeeze' by dispensing a 1/2" amount somewhere visible, then squeeze for the same duration into each hole.
c). Insert the first number and press in until just short of your desired distance from the wall.
[IF you are using the standoff tubes mentioned in Step 4.a) above - tap the numbers until each standoff makes firm contact with both the exterior wall AND the back of the number. Proceed to Step 4.f) and f. ii) below - Ignore 4.f. i)]
d). Repeat steps 'b' and 'c' until finished.
e). With the heel end of your fist (it's the softest "hammer" around and always available) tap the numbers into facial alignment with each other.
Use a level if necessary to vertically 'plumb' the faces. Use a straight edge (the level or the edge of the wood template) or a trusty 'eyeball' to horizontally align the number faces with each other (see the 8 Step Executive Summary - much simpler explanation).
f). Unlikely, but nice to have a plan if the following happens:
If they drift out of position slightly when you let go of them:
i) cut small pieces of styrofoam (with a bread knife) or cardboard to space the numbers a set distance away from the wall;
ii) use packing-, duct- or masking-tape to pull them closer to the wall. The small amount of silicone employed will give you between 10 and 15 minutes to make easy adjustments. Full setup time is closer to 24 hours. Consult the package instructions.
g). After 2 hours: Clean and polish the numbers with Counter Top Magic or WD40*.
* For seaside & other highly corrosive environments: Wipe down your [stainless steel] address numbers with WD40 once a month. This can increase their ability to resist corrosion far in excess of the corrosion Warrantee Period [3 years] - ie. for decades. [The "WD" in WD40 stands for "water displacement", but WD40 also provides a barrier against environmental elements that can eventually break down the chromium oxide that is the main protective ingredient of all stainless steel].
5. Stand back and admire your handiwork. Relish the thought that an installation this apparently complex is both simple and satisfying when pursued step by step.
HOW TO TELL WHAT DIAMETER THREADED RODS YOU
HAVE
On a smooth table surface
make a stack of the following coins:
Quarter on the bottom, nickel in the middle and a dime on top. Lie one of your threaded rods down on the table
[horizontally]. Make one end of it touch the edge of the stack of coins at 90 degrees.
• If you can easily slide
the dime over top of the threaded rod [while not letting
it lose contact with the nickel] – you have size 6-32 threaded rods. Your initial drill bit size should be
5/32”.
• If the dime buts up against the end of the threaded rod but does not ride easily
over it without losing contact with the nickel – you have size 10-32 threaded
rods. Your initial drill bit size should
be 7/32”.
How to find the value of "X" (in other words - how deep to drill the holes) - where "X" = length of threaded rods minus thickness of digits minus 1/8"¹ minus depth of standoffs
For example, if the threaded rods are 3" long, the digits are 1/2" thick & the standoffs are 1/2" (if not using the standoffs - replace this figure with the distance away from the mounting surface that you would like the digits to "stand off") the math would look like this:
In english: 3" threaded rods minus (1/2 thick address numbers minus 1/8") minus 1/2" standoff depth = 2 1/8"
Please Note: Above is the MINIMUM DRILLING DEPTH only - you can drill deeper - and in fact, sometimes this is preferable, as the silicone CAN give some resistance when the THREADED RODS bottom out in the hole.
For example, if the threaded rods are 3" long, the digits have 1/4" deep threaded holes in their backs & the standoffs are 1/2" (if not using the standoffs - replace this figure with the distance away from the mounting surface that you would like the digits to "stand off") the math would look like this:
In english: 3" threaded rods minus (1/4" deep threaded holes in backs of numbers) minus 1/2" standoff depth = 2 1/4"
Please Note: Above is the MINIMUM DRILLING DEPTH only - you can drill deeper - and in fact, sometimes this is preferable, as the silicone CAN give some resistance when the THREADED RODS bottom out in the hole.
